Tuesday, September 20, 2016

The wait is over, long live the wait (more on lights, your chance to vote

Some stuff came in from the company I was worried about!
At this point it's hard to know if internet reviews have any value. f$#k!

Futurlec, just so we are clear. Got a fair bit of bad review along with some good.
I got in LED's a number of different logic chips, pull-up resistors, etc.

2 orders. They arrived in 3 -4 weeks. This is typical for shipping from hong-kong.  So NOT the 3 months some said.

It looks mostly correct for parts and quantities, so while customer conversation with them was poor, it seems (at first glance) that they supplied what was asked for.

Now sadly, I have to test a bunch of these parts to see if they work, or are just a bunch of dead plastic.

First the LED's. (because they are easier and FUN!) and lead to blinking lights.
I have my 1st issue. I bought 50 each of red, blue, green and yellow. I got one (50) bag of blue that actually is red. I want to cut them some slack on this, All of the LED's are completely clear when not powered, I really don't know how that would not happen more often.

IF it is the only error, I'll consider this a decent buy. If it's only the start of the problems ...

So I wired up a few to get a look at 'em.  In groups of 3 just like on the KI-10 console. As you can see, I only got the 1 blue LED on the end. (They look better in real life than the pic)



below a part of the KI console











<<skip this if your eyes are glazing over)
I did some detailed testing because I wanted to know about power usage, etc.

Oddly the blue and green LED's have a forward voltage drop of 3 volts while the red and yellow only eat 2 volts. In any case that means with my guesstimated 150 ohm pull-up B&G are using 13 ma while R&Y are using 20 ma.

I may do more testing later, because I turned the voltage down to see where they started to actually emit light, and they actually start to work at amazingly low currents. This seems important, as I have to worry about the amount of power the system will use. (heat space cooling, etc...)
<<end of skip)

Now for the important part, the vote! My plan is to mostly use alternating blue and green LEDs in homage to the KI console, but WHAT do YOU think?
Post your vote as a comment to the post.

Meanwhile, There is now some serious time needed to do parts testing. Hopefully I'll get good results and wont need to spend so much time on that later, but for now, I gotta know if this stuff works.
The really good news for me is that this stuff is way cheaper than it was back in the day. If it works...

You may here me say this again. This could take me a while...

Sunday, September 18, 2016

Blinking light minutia

So, did we always know it would come down to blinking lights?
Not sure I did, because there is a big reason to avoid them. That reason is that it takes a lot more chips, just to run the lights. It takes a lot of mux's (at least that is how AK did it.) It also takes those light driver chips. hmm gotta look that up, back in a minute....

I'm back, but no more knowledgeable than I was when I left. It seems that the standard KI-10 Customer print set (which was by and large all us field service grunts ever saw) does not contain the actual schematics for the freaking blinking lights! It seems that this information was only in the manufacturing print set. So we know a wire goes off to somewhere there is a light (like AR BIT 0) , but that circuit is a mystery to us.

I sorta get this. Whether or not the lights worked was superfluous to the thing actually working. It coulda worked just fine with no lights at all, so they were there just for us to admire, and on the rare occasion use them for troubleshooting.

So, the customer would never need these and various power supply details unless they were building their own KI-10 which DEC would not have been in favor of. Hey, what about me? ha

BUT I started this post because blinking lights are COOL! And, whether or not the finished product has them, I'm gonna need them while prototyping, so I can "SEE" what's happening.

And now finally for the electrical and logic minutia (more teaching). I remembered that in the 74XX logic chips there were some that were built to be interface chips. To drive things OTHER than just another 74XX chip.

So, for example, there is the 7404 chip. This is one of the 3 most basic 74XX chips.
It is simply 6 NOT's. Whatever goes in comes out the opposite.
If the input is high, the output is low and visa versa.

OK goddamit here are the other 2.
These are the 7400, which is 4 NAND gates (that's an AND gate with a NOT output.
And the 7402 which is 4 NOR gates (yes, you get it, an OR with a NOT output.

I mention these here, because every other digital circuit can be made from these basic building blocks.
These form adders, registers, counters, etc. So really (and frankly you could do it all with just the 7400's) if you understand these you have the basis for any digital circuit.

Can we get back to the subject please? I said this was minutia and I need to get to it.

So, the 7404 is 6 inverters. But those guys also had the 7405 and the 7407 chips.
Now if you look below, you will see that the logic is identical. It looks like 6 inverters. Just like the 7404.

Well, as I said (it seems like forever ago) this chip was built to interface to other things. The way they did that was by making the output "open collector".
OK really in the weeds now, See the arrow? It it pointing to a part of a transistor which is NOT connected. It's OPEN. The circuit is completed OUTSIDE of the chip, which makes it usable to connect to other things.


And here we show why that is important. A blinking light can be driven by one of these.

Finally, notice that I mentioned there was a 7405 and a 7407. What's the difference? I started to ask myself that question as well, because I forgot.  I could buy a 7405 for a quarter (literally), but the 7407 was more like 60 cents. So el cheapo me went and bought (10) 7405's without thinking about it.

These are still on the parts I'm waiting for, but I did start to wonder. So, I looked at the spec's and it turns out that the 7405 isn't really powerful enough. It can only handle an output of 8 ma. My led's generally need about 30 ma, so if I connected one to a 7405 there would be smoke!

The 7407 chip can handle 40 ma (that's milliamp) outputs, or happily BLINKING LIGHTS
I just ordered some of those so I can start to work on the light show.


Thursday, September 15, 2016

Waiting...

I am waiting.

I am waiting for stuff to arrive from overseas. It naturally takes a long time, but there are complications.

Maybe I have purchased from an internet scam!

You can't cheat an honest man. Sadly, I am not so honest. I have started some internet research on parts. I have even joined Alibaba and successfully purchased stuff from Shenzhen China!

However, I am waiting for my biggest parts purchase to arrive. It's not that big (less than $150.00) , so it wont be the end of the world if it is a scam, but now I have to wait.

The website:  futurlec.com
It's a complete website, with many electronic parts, and frankly cheap (but  at 1st glance believable)  prices. There it is, the pretty good price trap. Are they too good to be true? I have in another area already fallen prey to this phenomenon. Yes, it's possible I have done this before.

So, AFTER the fact I started looking to see what others think of this company. The news is mixed. The internet is so unreliable. How do you know who is telling the truth?

Anyway, there are stories that this is a completely fake company that a couple of Australian guys are making money from. There is another story that this is a Thai based company. So many different experiences. Some say they never got product. Some say it took 3 months. Some say wrong product arrived. Some (a few) say all was OK.

My experience is that their customer service (via email) is slow and unreliable. Not the worst ever, but close. We have managed to carry on conversations and theoretically they have adjusted my orders to compensate far part substitutions they needed to make.

I know one really bad thing. We agreed to a change in the order in which I would owe them $8 more than originally paid for by credit card on their site. I asked them how they wanted me to pay the extra to which they did not respond. I have recently looked at my credit card activity and THEY TOOK THE MONEY! They charged me the additional $8 all by themselves. This means they KEPT ALL MY CREDIT information. Yikes!

I received an email from them today with tracking numbers from 2 different overseas locations.It's possible all is OK and they are just a really slow company (not unlike say Comcast for example).

I am now going to check on my credit card activity pretty closely for a while. I'd hate to have to change the number, it's tied in to so many payments I make.

Maybe all will arrive safe and all this worry is for naught. It's hard to believe a website could stay up for so long and be a scam, but as I said, I've been caught once before.

allhdd.com - don't EVER buy anything from them. I have the piece of crap they sold me sitting on my desk as a reminder. Apparently not enough.

Hey, none of this is serious. If I can't laugh at it, that would be an issue.

When they stuff gets here (from this or another company) I will start working on BLINKING LIGHTS! WOOHOO!



Wednesday, September 7, 2016

My workbench still isn't right, or how to kill 3 days.

I wanted to call this post 'lack of power, that was our dilemma' but that is an expression that no-one here will have heard before. This will be a long post, not because the subject matter deserves it, but because of how I let the project consume several days!

So, as we have seen previously, I have started to setup my workbench. As part of that, I bought this old laboratory bench power supply for cheap. Another image:

This is a perfectly wonderful piece of equipment. It supplies 3 different adjustable voltages, which allows you to build a mixed analog and digital circuit on your workbench to do almost anything a labrat would want. 0-30 volts (2 of 'em), and one (4 - 6.5) volt 5 amp output supply for the digital side.

The problem is the digital side. It was designed to allow some variation in output, to cover a number of early logic families. (Uh-oh, more history). We could go really back, a really early digital computer was made with electro-mechanical relays (see pic) (if you were near it, you would here them clicking back and forth, clackity clackity, clack) ,  and then they were made using vacuum tube technology (see pic). This was a tremendous increase in speed, approaching some semblance of modern technology, but tubes were still too big, occupying far too much space, and produced a large amount of heat.

Well ok, my time doesn't go back that far, but I do have one piece of old tech (which was already surplus when I was in high school) which had a bunch if tiny little tubes on a circuit board. Anyway, as logic transitioned to the solid state world, many different supply voltages were used. There were discrete diode and transistor boards (see pic) which might use any voltage the designer cared for. Some used negative power (DEC), etc. We were making progress. We could now get one WHOLE logic gate on a board!

At some point there could be more tutorial on digital logic, but I'm not sure about that. While I love the role of teacher, my audience probably has a handle on the basics. For now, see my favorite Dilbert cartoon.

This was followed by the introduction of a few different forms of integrated circuit (IC) logic. In the early days of RTL and DTL, the power ranges narrowed, but not completely.

Then we get to TTL logic. (transistor-transistor-logic aka 74XXX). This was becoming the main stream as I really started working, and it also forms the basis for the KI-10 CPU (which was where we started right?) TTL was much more rigidly defined which was a boon to the digital engineer. He could concentrate on the logic design, because way more analog variables had been removed. (We'll talk about output fan-out later). TTL logic required a 5 volt power supply. Technically the range was 4.5 to 5.5 volts (because they had to allow for some slop), but the truth is it was optimized and happiest at 5 volts. This was widely accepted and in fact following technologies (CMOS NMOS, etc) continued to use this voltage and still today it is commonly in use. Very high density memory and CPU chips now use 3.3 volts (to reduce power consumption), but 5 volts is the general standard.
  OK, I need to talk about TTL more, but not now. I want to get back on track...

5 volts. Not 4 volts. Certainly not 6.5 volts. (I smell smoke!). 5 volts. So, there is a problem with my venerable old bench supply. IT CAN supply the 5 volts needed, but what if someone accidentally turns the adjustment know, or bumps into it? Oops. This is a problem I am not prepared to allow. I don't want to fry any of my chips because of an accident. What I really need is 5 volt fixed power supply.

So, my pretty lab supply is not really what I want. I need to a simple single fixed 5 volt power supply.
So, I get this cheap new internal 5 volt 30 amp fixed supply for $35.00. $35.00? It continues to amaze me how cheap most of this stuff is.

But wait, there is a problem! What? Really, it's internal. I could just screw a power cord into it, but I would have live exposed 120 vac power a bit to close to possibly clumsy me on the workbench.

It needs to be in a box.
Wait, I have one. It's been on my shelf for a hundred years, waiting for me to have a project.

A perfect little box to hold my power supply.

A box to cover it up and make it pretty. Uh-oh, strap in for the rollercoaster of my brain.
It should have a plug in power cord, like my computer.
It should have a nice on/off switch.
It should have pretty binding posts for the output.
It should have a light indicating it's on.
No, better yet, it should have a digital display, showing that it's doing its job! Why? Because they are CHEAP! A BIG 3.5 digit LED volt measuring panel meter is $12.00! Back in the day, each digit would have cost $12.00, forget the volt meter. The panel would have cost more like $150.00.
Hey, while I'm at it, let's have a switch on it to show Volts or Amps in use.
I buy most of these extra parts online.

Were you buckled in? Did you survive the wave of my GREAT ideas for spending time on this? I figure I can put this together in a day. So, we have labor day weekend and I am stuck here minding the dog. If I take a day to throw this together, I'll still have 2 days to go out and do something. hahahahahahaha!

Well, this tale is getting there. I'm taking a work break now, more later.
-------------------------------------------------------

So ok, I have the design in my mind, now I have to start laying it out (mostly) on the aluminum front panel of the box. Now resurrecting long unused tools, I have more shopping to do. Simple issues like rust that need to be dealt with. So off to home depot for 3-in-one oil, new drill bits, etc..

Measure parts, scribe, square, scribe some more. One day gone.

2nd day, do the metal working. I don't have a shop so I have to proceed slowly to avoid having aluminum shards f*#k-up my floors. Have we talked about 'the nibbler' yet? I didn't think so. You see those NOT round holes? The cheapest way to make those for low volume use, when you don't have a machine shop is to use a device called a nibbler.



This evil device takes a very small (1/16" by 1/4") bite out of a piece of sheet aluminum. It operate by hand strength. As you can see by the size of those 1 by 2 inch sized holes, that is a lot of little bites. It's hard to use. It hurts my hand. I am a pussy not used to manual labor. With every bite I dream of having my own end mill.  (I went online to look for a pic of the nibbler and found possible powered ones for future endeavors) Notice the lopsided holes where my measurements went awry and further action was needed.  Two days gone.




Day 3. Wire it up and finish as seen in the below pic. There are of course mechanical issues getting the parts mounted. Last minute cuts drills and files...  I start wiring with the power cord/switch because I have to calibrate the actual 5 volt supply before I connect anything to it. I'd like to state up front that I cross wire the switch and instead of applying power it blows the internal fuse. I need to test it twice before I realize this idiot mistake.

Finally power is applied, now I don't like the wire stock I have on-hand to do the actual 5 volt wiring. Another trip to home-depot to buy more wire.

How about that cool 3 1/2 digit panel display?  As mentioned earlier, it was cool cheap. What does it do? It is a simple volt meter. It measures 0-199 millivolts to display 0-1999. There are no ranges. You have to externally adjust your input signal to fit the range of the panel. So, I need 2 resistors to make a voltage divider. A 10kohm followed by a 100ohm will be a 100/1 divider and keep my signal in range. (should be 5 volts divided by 100 = 50 millivolts which the panel can handle.)

At some point in this journey I decide that the panel should have a switch so I can display how much current is being used (amps)  so I can see how my test circuits is doing power wise.

An ammeter for those who are not trained, is different. We don't actually measure amps. Instead we use ohm's law.
                Image result for ohm's law equation
We only know how to measure voltage, so we get a known resistance and measure the voltage over it. By ohm's law voltage/resistance=current(I).

So, to set this up, I need to calculate backwards. My maximum output is 30 Amps. I need that to be measured as 30 millivolts (because my panel tops out at 200 and I need a value less than).
.03 volts / 30 amps = .001 ohm. Crap, do .001 ohm resistors exist? Yes, it turns out I have NOT invented the wheel. These are available to measure current (exactly what we are doing)

I buy one of these and it will arrive in a few days. I will put it in later.  Turns out these are relatively expensive. Where a 'normal' resistor might be 25 cents, the shunt is about $25.00




The ALMOST finished project. It looks fantastic from the outside, where you can't see the flaws.
The panel is too close to the edge. I had to cut away some inside stuff to get the box to close. I have ordered yet more wire. I had to use some that is too small for part of the wiring. I will rewire with some 18 AWG solid to better carry the current.



So, what's the point? There are several, but we'll see if I learn from any of them.

1. It takes much longer to actually do something, than to think it.
        a This could have severe consequences for the larger project
        b remember to review cost/benefit. Should I have looked harder for one to buy?

2. I need to have a system to keep my life balanced and out of 'the project sinkhole'

3. I am proud that I got this done. An (almost) completed electronic project. woohoo! Obviously the processor is far larger, but now I can physically start to work on test and development.

If you got this far, you may have less life than me.....

Thursday, September 1, 2016

Where do I start?

OK, seems like a general plan of attack is needed. There is clearly a lot to do.

You may have noticed that I am working on arithmetic. So, why not start there?
I plan to learn and breadboard everything from a simple add through a double floating divide.

That actually seems pretty fun, and I will start to get answers to the question, how fast will it be? We all know that the KI-10 had a 110 ns basic clock cycle. (You did right?) But less memorized was the 170-190 ns cycle needed to do an arithmetic ADD cycle. I am looking at my probable adder chip, the 74LS181 and trying to get propagation delays. IT looks like about 30 ns for most stuff but a little bit more for one logical operation?

That does not include other gates and latches which will be needed for the "ADD" cycle, but even so, it looks like I should be able to do 2 or even 3 times the speed of the original!

So, Al maybe I can get KL-10 speeds without that insane ECL logic!

Now for those of you keeping score at home, let's just look at what that means.
KL-10 mainframe    processor clock  33 MHz
Intel Core I7 in my current desktop   3.3 GHz.

So, it is the case that my current desktop computer is about 100 times faster than this old stuff!! i.e. this project is for fun, not real usability.

back to the plan....

So, in general the bullet points are
1 arithmetic
2 memory addressing (with paging, etc.
3 instruction decode (Can I do micro-code?)
3 processor status (user mode versus privileged mode)
4 I/O instructions and I/O bus.
6 PI (Programmed Interrupt) System

I need a more detailed list, and this will expand greatly as we go along. I don't know what I don't know. NO, that is NOT a Rumsfeld. The list at the link below will change as we go along.

Todo & question list for Dec-10 project

Maybe over the weekend I am actually gonna build something.